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             A Trip to Koreatown, NJ

Written by: Carrie Pestritto

When thinking of New Jersey, images
of Atlantic City, The Sopranos, and
the airport at Newark commonly
come to mind.  There is another
world in Bergen County, New Jersey
that many people do not know of:
Koreatown.  The Korean-American
community makes up one of the
largest immigrant population in
Bergen County and represents over
half of the state’s entire Korean
population.  It is concentrated along
the Hudson River near George
Washington Bridge, mainly in towns
such as Fort Lee, Palisades Park,
Leonia, Ridgefield, Edgewater,
Closter, Norwood, and Englewood
Cliffs.  It is possible to live in this
area and feel as if you are not in
America at all: Everyone speaks Korean, and Korean TV shows and music
are all avidly followed.  I visited a friend and stayed with her family in
Ridgefield Park, where I learned about what life is like in K-town.  She and
her family came to America when she was in first grade and have been
living in New Jersey ever since—as residents, not citizens.

One of the first things I notice when I step into her house is the TV.  Her
family is watching a Korean celebrity news station.  They tell me,
“Everyone in K-town has satellite TV, so they can watch the Korean
stations.”  Similarly, on Broad Street, a popular place in Bergen County
where many people congregate, all of the signs are in Hangul and
everyone in the stores and on the streets chatters away in Korean.  We go
to an H-mart, a huge chain grocery store that sells Korean food, like tofu,
shrimp crackers, imported seaweed, and kimchi.  Many of the foods are
imported from South Korea, but some are also made in America.

“It’s amazing,” she says to me as we walk around.  “I never realized how
un-Americanized I was until I went to college.  Here, I was brought up the
same way I would have been if I had been raised in Korea.”  The Korean
population in Bergen County celebrates traditional Korean festivals and
holidays, like Korean New Year, which is the New Year on the Chinese
lunar calendar, or Choo-Suk, a holiday that falls on August 15th in the
lunar calendar.  For Choo-Suk, Koreans eat traditional foods to celebrate
the harvest, much like Thanksgiving.  There are greater differences than
holidays and TV shows, however, that separate the Korean community
from other Americans.

When I ask her how being raised in K-town and being an immigrant was
unlike growing up in a typical American household, she answers,
“Everything is different—the food we eat, the way we communicate, the
kind of jobs we have, even the things we use.  For example, Americans
buy a lot of plates, but we use rice bowls.  Just little things like that, but
also larger things, like our views on life.  We’re always trying to
overachieve, because we’re immigrants and things are less advantageous
for us.  If Americans get into a fight and someone gets hurt, they call the
cops.  Koreans won’t call the cops because we know they won’t help us.  
There is a racial prejudice and a prejudice because we are not American
citizens—citizenship and racism go hand in hand.”  

Koreans who live in this area often face immigration issues and there are
many undocumented immigrants.  They come with travel visas and then
stay in America after their visas expire.  There are several lawyers in K-
town who help these immigrants become permanent residents; generally,
if they work for two years, they can get issued a green card.  The U.S.
Citizenship and Immigration Services’ website states that immigrants are
qualified to become naturalized citizens if they have “resided
continuously as a lawful permanent resident in the U.S. for at least 5
years prior to filing with no single absence from the United States of more
than one year.”  Many Korean immigrants do seek citizenship after they
get a green card, but this is hard to do, especially if they are
undocumented.  Even getting a green card is an onerous procedure, one
my friend calls “a continuous process of not happening.”  She says,
“Interviews are scheduled and then keep getting postponed.”  She further
commented that the Bush administration made it much harder for
immigrants to get citizenship and that Bush’s laws and policies regarding
terrorism also changed laws on immigration.

“People try so hard to become citizens,” states my friend, whose family
will be eligible to become citizens in 2010.  “They don’t mind giving up
Korean citizenship, because they want to make a life here.  Yet, they are
not entirely assimilating to the American lifestyle.  They want to keep
their Korean traditions and connections and they want to be American—
they get pulled in two separate directions.”  She does feel that
immigration reform is slowly happening and that Koreans are immersing
themselves into the American mainstream.  “Things are better than they
were ten years ago.  There is a lot of hope for the future,” she says.
Editor's Note: This is the first of a series exploring our country's rich
cultural and ethnic heritage.